高等学校化学学报 ›› 2023, Vol. 44 ›› Issue (10): 20230143.doi: 10.7503/cjcu20230143

• 有机化学 • 上一篇    下一篇

两亲磺化杯芳烃对护肤成分的增溶、增稳和促进渗透作用

于红梅1,2, 李诗慧3, 田汉文3, 蔺一琳3, 张树昕3, 耿文超3, 李华斌3, 王宏磊4, 刘娟2(), 郭东升3()   

  1. 1.北京科技大学材料科学与工程学院, 北京 100083
    2.中国检验检疫科学研究院化妆品技术中心, 北京 100176
    3.南开大学化学学院, 功能高分子材料教育部重点实验室, 元素有机化学国家重点实验室, 天津 300071
    4.苏州隽德生物科技有限公司, 苏州 215000
  • 收稿日期:2023-03-29 出版日期:2023-10-10 发布日期:2023-05-05
  • 通讯作者: 郭东升 E-mail:liuj@caiqctc.com.cn;dshguo@nankai.edu.cn
  • 作者简介:刘 娟, 女, 硕士, 副研究员, 主要从事化妆品功效性、 适应性及安全性评价方面的研究. E-mail: liuj@caiqctc.com.cn.

Enhancement of Solubility, Stability and Permeation of Skin-care Ingredients by Amphiphilic Sulfonated Calix[8]arene

YU Hongmei1,2, LI Shihui3, TIAN Hanwen3, LIN Yilin3, ZHANG Shuxin3, GENG Wenchao3, LI Huabin3, WANG Honglei4, LIU Juan2(), GUO Dongsheng3()   

  1. 1.School of Materials Science and Engineering,University of Science and Technology Beijing,Beijing 100083,China
    2.China Cosmetics Tech Center,Chinese Academy of Inspection and Quarantine Cosmetics Tech Center,Beijing 100176,China
    3.College of Chemistry,Nankai University,Key Laboratory of Functional Polymer Materials Ministry of Education,State Key Laboratory of Elemento?Organic Chemistry,Tianjin 300071,China
    4.Suzhou Junde Biotechnology Co. ,Ltd,Suzhou 215000,China
  • Received:2023-03-29 Online:2023-10-10 Published:2023-05-05
  • Contact: GUO Dongsheng E-mail:liuj@caiqctc.com.cn;dshguo@nankai.edu.cn

摘要:

合成了下缘十二烷基修饰的磺化杯[8]芳烃(SC8A-12C), 用于提高维生素A(Va)在水相中的溶解性和稳定性, 并促进Va的经皮渗透. 脂溶性Va在水中几乎不溶, SC8A-12C能将Va的溶解度提高至1.1 mg/mL, 将Va在水溶液中的半衰期从5 h延长到35 h. 体外透皮测试表明, SC8A-12C提高Va的透皮量达16.9倍. SC8A-12C还能增溶苯乙基间苯二酚、 水杨酸、 槲皮素及壬二酸等多种护肤成分, 并将水杨酸的透皮量提高3.8倍. SC8A-12C从增溶、 增稳和透皮性3个方面提升了Va的功效, 有望开发出无油配方的纯水剂Va类护肤品. 鉴于SC8A-12C对多种护肤成分的增溶作用, 有望助力于多功效护肤品的发展.

关键词: 杯芳烃, 增溶, 增稳, 透皮性, 维生素A

Abstract:

The sulfonated calix[8]arene modified with dodecyl at the lower-rim(SC8A-12C) was synthesized to improve the solubility and stability of vitamin A(Va) in aqueous solution, and promote the percutaneous permeability of Va. Lipophilic Va is almost insoluble in water, SC8A-12C could improve solubility of Va to 1.1 mg/mL and prolong the half-life of Va in aqueous solution from 5 h to 35 h. In vitro transdermal test showed that SC8A-12C increased the transdermal amount of Va by 16.9 times. SC8A-12C also increased the solubility of various skin-care ingredients, such as phenoethylresorcinol, salicylic acid, quercetin and azelaic acid, and increased the transdermal amount of salicylic acid by 3.8 times. SC8A-12C improved the efficacy of Va through improving solubility, stability and skin permeability, and was expected to develop oil-free skin-care products of Va. In view of the SC8A-12C improving solubility of a variety of skin-care ingredients, it is expected to contribute to the development of multi-functional skin-care products.

Key words: Calixarene, Solubilization, Stabilization, Transdermal permeation, Vitamin A

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